- Nagami Cumquat
- Meyer and Lisbon lemons
- Wheeny Grapefruit
- Satsuma mandarins
- Valencia oranged
- Jerusalem Artichoke
- Pac Choy, Bok Choy
- Peas/Snow Peas
Now that we are heading into winter on the Mornington Pensinula, I thought it would be worth an update on how to take care of your Lilly Pilly’s to minimise Psyllids.
Psyllids are small sap sucking insects about 2-4mm long. After mating the female inserts yellow oval shaped eggs into the edge of new leaves.
Small nymphs hatch from the eggs and move to the newer leaves where they feed and develop pimple gall which is the plants response to the psyllids feeding.
Plants that are stressed and in poor condition are more susceptible to attack. It’s actually worth noting, despite it being rather damp on the Mornington Peninsula this time of year, the base of the Lilly Pilly’s can still be very dry, which can cause stress.
Particularly in suburbs like Mount Eliza, where they have heavy clay based soils, often water will run off quicker than can be absorbed in areas like Frankston South, Mount Martha, Patterson Lakes, and Somerville.
Apart from the drawbacks Lilly Pillies or Syzygiumz are beautiful plants and need not be affected so long as they remain healthy.
Some areas are more prone to attack so you may need to select your species a little more carefully.
How do we deal with these pests?
When you see the damage it may be too late and it cant be reversed. If its a mild attack its not going to affect the health of the plant, just make it look a little ugly. travel through the plant and remain travel
Spray with white oil and use a systemic insecticide spray like Confidor. this will kill the nymphs.
Systemic sprays are chemicals that will travel through the plant and remain in the plant tissue for a period of time. Confidor can also be administered by small tablets dug into the ground about 10 cm from the base of the tree and dug 5cm deep. Use 1 tab for every metre of height. If it is severe I recommend cutting out the affected branches and treating as described.
They prefer milder conditions so don’t usually appear in the heat of summer and cold winters.
Now is the time to transplant any rose that you may have put in the wrong position. Make sure you prune it then place it in a position that receives at least 8 hours of sun daily. Water in well with a mixture of water and seasol.
Any rose that has been planted in a pot for more than 3 years needs to be repotted with new fertile soil. Once again prune then remove the roots by a quarter and replant again watering in well.
It is rose pruning month in July. If you are unable to get a qualified rose pruner to do the job for you there are a few simple steps to remember. Firstly make sure your secateurs have been dipped in a solution of 10% bleach to water. This stops cross contamination.
The rose should look like a vase when complete allowing as much sun into the centre. Cut all growth nodules to face towards the outside of the bush and always cut on an angle.
When complete rake up all the leaves on the ground and spray with lime sulpher to prevent the spread of fungal diseases. Do not use any of the cutting for compost.
When the new growth appears in spring spray with rose shield to protect from black spot and other infections.
A scattering of slow release rose food at this point is beneficial.